14th Century Hood Part 1 - Constructing the Lining

In the SCA, some folks really like to go all out and create a lot of their pieces (or all of their pieces) by hand. I am all for it, but in most cases just personally don’t have the time or patience. Most of my work right now is indeed, machine sewn. I’m not against doing hand sewing from time to time however.

I’ve only been in the SCA for 3 years, and have just recently gotten my AoA (Award of Arms). I’m merely trying to find what skills suit me best, and trying to hone those skills to get the most out of my experience.

To enhance said experience, and really make an attempt at period construction of a garment I decided to try hand sewing a 14th century hood. It’s not an uncommon piece of clothing in the middle ages, and was quite popular from at least the 1300s to the 1600s. The Viking version of the same garment is a little different, but the same basic idea and functionality.

Worn by both men and women, hoods were a common head covering for people. Most examples

Period Illumination featuring two hood wearing people.

found are merely one layer of fabric, but for more affluent people during the time it bet it wouldn't be unheard of to have a lining fabric to offer added stability and warmth during colder months. I don’t have any documentation for this. If there isn’t, this is just a theory. If there is, well… I stand by my statement.

I decided to use a heavy black linen for the main body of the hood, and a salmon colored cotton blend for lining and buttons. Now, you might be asking yourself - “How is the color salmon historically accurate?”. Great question! I asked myself the same thing. Apparently madder root (Rubia Tinctorum) offered many colors in the red spectrum during the middle ages. My fabric wasn’t naturally dyed in this case, but the color is indeed accurate.

I conveniently had the matching thread (because I usually buy a matching spool when I buy fabric), and decided to get to work. My friend, and teacher within the SCA draped my pattern fabric (a thin white cotton) and fitted it properly. As she has some background in fashion design she had no trouble getting it to drape as it should. In no time at all I had my hood pattern cut out, and was laying it on my fabric. 

Forgive my fabric weights, and cutting table. I have limited space to work on. First I cut out the parts of the pattern in the lining fabric. As you can see in the middle image above, an extension was added to the original pattern. This addition is what is known as a liripipe. A liripipe was common on hoods, and varied in length from modest to floor length. Not all hoods had a liripipe attached, such as those in the Viking version. No evidence has been found that liripipe length related to a status of a person or anything of the like. It just seems to be a fashion choice. In the event of a longer liripipe it could be worn around the neck as a scarf for extra warmth.

Once the pieces were cut out, I started working on the lining. A blanket stitch was done around all the edges, and on the seams. Once that was done it was easier to see what the hood would look like when finished.

Once that was constructed, I started constructing the black outer piece. It seemed a little much to put it all in one blog post, though. Please stay tuned for the second half of the blog post! I'll be finishing it up, and providing a button and button hole tutorial. Thanks again for stopping by!

My first Italian gown...

   So the East Kingdom hosts a large event every year known as Birka, named for the Viking trading town from the middle ages. The event hosts a huge merchant area filled with the most wonderful fineries, a bear pit and fencing tournament where heavy list fighters and fencers test their mettle (and metal). After court is held there is also a ball, and a hafla. Not to mention there is an Arts and Sciences exhibit, and classes for people to take part in. The event has a little something for everyone.

   Our household, House Strangewayes strives to dress our best at this event every year. We pick a household theme, and each of us create attire based in our chosen time period.Our household's chosen time period run the gamut from early period Viking, to late period Italian. We have a little bit of everything. Below, is a wonderful family photo taken by our household member, and my friend Heather. Her SCA name is Bianca Angoussola.

Photo Credit: Heather Fitzpatrick

From left (Back Row): Lady Syele von Heidelberg, Lady Simona bat Leon, Lord Thothreker Ogaefa, Erdene Qadajin, Lord Fearghas MacGreggoure, Lord Hermankyn, Master Ekk, and Hongo Ryotaro Mitsuyoshi
Front Row, from left: Lady Cecily Windham, Lady Bianca Angoussola, Maestra Julia Agriccola, Lady Fortune St. Keyne, Lady Elvira Violante Ballesteros, and Lady Lysken die Waeyer.
Front (with the awesome hat): Jacquemine Van Bel

   What you're looking at is a late period Italian gown with detachable sleeves. A white linen chemise underneath. Accessories are a black snood with pearls and gold beading, a circlet adorned with a bee. Earrings and necklace both made by me. The earrings are a pearl drop earring with a gold cap on them. The closures aren't quite period, but I was working with what I had. The necklace was a redesign of a previous blog post I had done. I changed the sizing of the pearls, and I adjusted the spacers. The belt was a chain belt made from long bronze clearance necklaces at Charming Charlie, and a bee pendant I found last minute at Michaels.

   If you look closely you can see a cross hanging from my belt as well. This was semi common during this time in Spain and Italy. My persona is more attuned to the religious side of things so I felt it appropriate.

A great side view of the dress. Photo credit to Jason Taylor.

   Here you get a little glimpse of the cording I had made for the side lacing. This was done via finger loop braiding and serves the same basic purpose as lucet cord. I have to redo this part, and add more rings but I was quite pleased with this. At each end of the cord is an aiglet sewn onto it. They're gold colored aiglets, and add a little shimmer (and who doesn't love that?).

   I certainly have quite a ways to go in getting that perfect dress but believe me when I say I've come a long way, baby. Hopefully next Birka will be even fancier!

   Thanks again for reading!